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The taste, smell and appearance of a cheese come from the native bacteria in the initial raw milk. Due to increasing regulations for milk pasteurization, cheeses are losing their particular flavours and authenticity. In Normandy, cheesemakers started working with researchers to set up a microbial bank in order to save the microorganisms responsible for the cheesy flavours. Wilko Duprez went to meet the cheesemakers and scientists on this unusual collaboration.

(Photo: Maturing camembert cheeses covered in Penicillium camembertii bacteria. Credit: Fromages AOP de Normandie Association)